Saturday: Merchiston, Etc.

 

My major destination today was Merchiston Castle, home of mathematician John Napier.  Since the time of my last trip I had learned that parts of the 16th-century gate were still in place, so I wanted to get out there and see that.  Of course there were many other stops I wanted to make on the way -- including art galleries, cathedral, library, etc.  The first stop was the National Portrait Gallery.  The building itself is a work of art, with its arches and friezes and murals.  I've been here two or three times before, but I'd heard they had a Napier portrait in their collection that I haven't seen while visiting previously, so I came to see if I could find that.He does appear in the frieze around the entrance (third from left in the picture above).  I just realized that I only ever pay attention to this part of the frieze, yet it wraps all the way around the great hall.  I think on my next visit I should maybe see who else from the history of Scotland is up here!

Since I was packing a lot into the day, I approached a docent right away to ask about any Napier portraits.  The docents were so helpful, and I ended up in the room with the 16th-century portraits.  There was a Napier here: Margaret Graham, Lady Napier, who would have been John Napier's daughter-in-law, but we couldn't find any John Napier portraits.  The docent suggested I go to their library to look up their holdings, but then, as I was exploring different rooms, he turned up again with a huge book tucked under his arm, and we went through it together to try to find what I was looking for.  We had a VERY long conversation, which I really appreciated, and he also said it was nice to have a visitor who had such specific interests, so it was good all around!  Here is the page where the John Napier portrait is listed, so they do have it, but it wasn't on display.

Of course I had to visit Mary again, as I do every time I come here.  She does move from location to location, but I always find her eventually.

As is the interior of the building, the exterior is lovely as well, but it is very hard to get a decent picture of it.  It's a neo-gothic building in red sandstone built in the Victorian Era.  It opened in 1889 and was the first purpose-built portrait gallery in the world.

There is a sculpture of John Napier on the corner of the building.  He's on the right.

Quickly popping into the National Gallery I saw many of my favorites again.  I'll limit myself to just one picture -- that of Callum, the terrier owned by a man who bequeathed a huge amount of money to the gallery on the condition that the portrait of Callum always be on display.  I think that's pretty cool!

I hadn't found time to get to the National Library earlier in the week, so I headed there next to get my card renewed and in hopes of reading.  They don't fetch books on Saturday, however, so I accomplished the one but not the other.  I also walked into other areas of the library than just the entrance, reader's registration, and the archival reading room.

Mission accomplished - now to the Royal Mile for St. Giles Cathedral, the High Kirk of Scotland and center of the Scottish Reformation.  John Knox preached here and is buried here.  The crown spire dates back to the 1400s. 

There's such a wonderful variety of ceilings here.

And the organ case is truly impressive!

But what I was really here for on this trip was to find more Napier "items" that I've missed over and over before.  With a little help from a guide, I found them, so I have a couple more things I can check off of my treasure-hunt list.

The first is the pillar containing the sculpted face of John Napier's ancestor Archibald who donated generously to the church when it was being embellished in the 1460s.  (Gotta love the wild hairdo!)

The second is a portion of a stained glass window in honor of Napier's son, in the side chapel dedicated to James Graham, the Marquis of Montrose, whom he loyally supported.

There is a memorial to the Napier Family on the east end of the north side of the church exterior.

SEP

FAMILIAE NAPERORV INTERIVS

HIC SITVM

EST

Because of all the Napier connections at St. Giles, and because of the importance of the man himself, many people think that John Napier is buried at St. Giles, but that is not the case.  He was buried in the Parish Church of St. Cuthbert's.

Of course, John Knox is memorialized here as well - with a sculpture inside and his grave marked outside.  There used to be a kirkyard around the church, but as time went on and the town grew, the area was built up, and what was once a kirkyard is now a parking lot, so Knox now lies under parking spot #23.

As usual, I wanted to keep moving, but town was REALLY crowded and busy that day.  Every restaurant had lines out the door, and I didn't want to wait.  Then I remembered a cool "secret."  There is a café in the library, so I just popped right on back over there and went right up tot he counter -- no line!

I made a quick stop at the National Museum after lunch and finally saw something I'd been wanting to see for a while and had never found there.  It's a big museum!  Those are the miniature coffins from Arthur's Seat.  Again, since I was cruising through the day pretty fast, I went right up to a docent as I walked in and asked her where to find them.  Since it was rather complicated to explain, she actually left her post and walked me to a different floor to get me where I wanted to go.  I didn't take many pictures, but for those who are interested I'll include the write-up.  It's quite a mystery, actually.

Of course I had to stop by the Napier display to see his "bones" again.  If you've been following me on this trip, you'll know I've seen many such displays - can't pass up any of them!  I also find it further testimony to how widely used these calculating devices were that there are so many museums displaying 16th- and 17th-century sets of Napier's Bones.

And then on past the Millennium Clock on my way up to the roof-top terrace for a quick peek at the view.  I did make sure to stop by here on the hour so I could see it in motion.

It's multiple stories high.

After a look from up high, I'm back on the ground and on my way to the main destination for the day, which is about a half hour walk from here.  (I didn't even go into Greyfriar's Kirk/Kirkyard this time - right behind Greyfriar's Bobby - first visit in which I haven't done that - just walked on past.)

Here are more views along the way - 

Despite having been here many times, it still feels like walking through a fairy tale to me!

And then finally to Edinburgh Napier University, the centerpiece of which is Napier's home, Merchiston Castle.  The goal in coming here is to see the gate, but I came in from the back side, so I did check out the tower again first - outside and in - 

And gotta check out the Napier display - bones on display here as well - modern reconstruction, I think.

And, just opposite, the man himself, and his "bones" sculpted with him - 

I see why I missed the gates before.  I haven't usually come at the college this way (and didn't this time either), but they're kind of recessed and also rather overshadowed by the monolithic 1960s building.

I believe that the parts that are original to this gate are early 17th century, or perhaps the late 16th century, which could place them within John Napier's lifetime.  

I imagine him riding his horse through the gate flanked by lions on either side.

After my time at Merchiston I had about a 45-minute walk back to my flat, and I took it in stages.  I stopped at Bruntsfield Links, a park right next to another park called The Meadows.  Together these are more than 90 acres in size.  It's really an amazing green space in a world capital.

I pulled out my Kindle and laid down to read for a while.  My feet were very happy.  The rest of me was too!

And then the rest of the journey "home" - past Usher Hall - 

 - past my favorite corner from which you can see St. John's, St. Cuthbert's, and the castle - 

  - and on down a road with the back of St. Mary's Cathedral in the distance - 

 - and across Dean Bridge - 

 - and looking down over Dean Village and the Water of Leith -

 - and a little jog between Comely Bank Avenue to Comely Bank Row - 

 - and it's "home again, home again, jiggedy, jig" - with one more full day in Edinburgh!  I sure maxed this one out, though.  Today I was mostly on the west end of town.  The next day was spent mostly in the east - starting out with a church service at Canongate Kirk, which was wonderful!  But for now, good night!