On my first full day in Halle, prior to visiting the market place ("maktplatz") and church ("kirche"), my wonderful host, Dr. Manfred Stern, took me to see graves of mathematicians in the Stadtgottesacker. It you take apart that word you see "stadt" for city, "gottes" for God's and "acker" for "acre." So it is "God's acre of the town;" I think that's a great name for a cemetery!
I believe this is the only Renaissance-style cemetery in Europe north of the alps. It was designed in the same fashion as the Campo Santo in Pisa, Italy and has been here since 1557.
The tombstone below, which is also visible in the center of the photograph above, is that of little-known mathematician Friedrich Meyer. He was not a university professor but rather a teacher at the Stadtgymnasium. However, he was on close terms with Halle University and professors Eduard Heine and Georg Cantor there. He was awarded an honorary doctorate from Halle University in 1894.
Manfred, who had discovered this tombstone years ago while looking for the tombstone of famed mathematician Eduard Heine, showed me this particularly stone because this mathematician and I share a surname and because the tombstone is mathematically interesting - inscribed with mathematical objects somewhat reminiscent of what was said to be on the tombstone of Archimedes.
We also looked for Heine's grave, which Manfred had taken a picture of in about 1980. It was in good shape then, but it looks like in the past 36 years it has either deteriorated or been removed. It should be in the area of what is shown in the photograph below. If there's one thing I've learned on these travels it is that our memorials are not permanent!
We did see the tomb of mathematician Johann Andreas Segner (1704-1777). From 1735-1755 he taught physics, mathematics and chemistry at the University of Gottingen. He also founded the observatory there. Then from 1755 until his death he taught physics, mathematics and astronomy at the University of Halle. He invented a precursor of the turbine, which was known as the Segner wheel, and he was visited in Halle by Leonhard Euler (1707-1783), who used Segner's results in his own mechanical investigations.*
*Information on Segner taken from the Mathematical Intelligencer (vol. 15, no. 2, 1993) article The Stadtgottesacker in Halle by Dr. Manfred Stern.
Well, it's the classic view of Highgate Cemetery, and I couldn't resist. This is the Egyptian Avenue, which, strangely enough, though it is the defining image of the cemetery today, was not well received when it was first constructed. The Victorians saw it as too pagan; they had other issues with it too, but I guess time heals all things . . .
Highgate Cemetery was opened in 1839. Before this time burial was typically done in the parish churchyard, but during the Industrial Revolution urban populations grew so quickly as to cause significant problems with many elements of infrastructure, including overcrowding in graveyards. This led to sanitation issues and epidemics as well as such things as coffins coming through the surface of churchyards and bursting open. Paris was ahead of London in dealing with these problems and opened Pere Lachaise Cemetery in 1804, and it was British visitors to Paris who were inspired to devote their time and money to canvass for such reform in London as well. Actually, the architect Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723) had seen this problem coming and had suggested the founding of cemeteries outside the city, which was something that had been done in ancient Roman times, but for legal reasons during his time this wasn't possible. By 1839 it was more than a necessity! Seven such cemeteries were opened on the outskirts of London near the same time - The Magnificent Seven.
Circle of Lebanon
"Tempus Fugit"
Entrance to West Highgate - border between the land of the living and the land of the dead
They just keep going and going! (East Highgate)
This cemetery is absolutely beautiful! The grounds are a beautiful garden and have become somewhat of a wildlife sanctuary. But during the tour today I learned how fortunate we are to still have this jewel. So much destruction has taken place. First it was grave robbers and "resurrection men" (who would dig up freshly buried bodies to sell to medical schools). Then it was a bombing in WWII. Later there was a lot of vandalism (1960s and 1970s); the story of Highgate Vampire didn't help with that. In the 1960s there was a push to demolish it to make room for apartment complexes.
Eventually some community members formed Friends of Highgate and fought against the demolition and development of this sacred ground. They gathered funds and worked to clean up and restore the cemetery, which had been so neglected and vandalized. Tour money is now used for this ongoing work. Part of what struck me in learning all this, however, and in seeing so much of what I've seen here in Europe in general (including in the British Museum - Roman skeletons, Egyptian mummies no longer resting where they were laid) is that - and it makes me sad and horrified to say it - when we lay our dear ones to rest, and when we ourselves are laid to rest, and monuments are lovingly put in place, it maybe isn't as permanent as we might think or hope. Sorry to be maudlin about it, but that's the reality I came face-to-face with today, and I just kept thinking:
"Oh Lord haste the day
When my faith shall be sight
The clouds be rolled back as a scroll
The trump shall resound
And the Lord shall descend
Even so it is well with my soul."
Here are some individual tombs I found interesting:
Grave of Anna Mahler, sculptor, daughter of Gustav Mahler
I love how pens and pencils are left at the grave of writer Douglas Adams
Guess who??
Um . . . yep . . .
Patrick Caulfield - tombstone sculpted by himself, result to the chagrin of the folks at the cemetery who gave permission
"and having writ" does move on, as it has
It seems appropriate to end with the tombstone of William Henry Monk - organist - and composer of "Eventide" the tune for the hymn "Abide with Me."
Abide with me; fast falls the eventide The darkness deepens; Lord, with me abide; When other helpers fail and comforts flee, Help of the helpless, oh, abide with me. Swift to its close ebbs out life's little day; Earth's joys grow dim, its glories pass away; Change and decay in all around I see O Thou who changest not, abide with me. I need Thy presence every passing hour; What but Thy grace can foil the tempter's pow'r? Who, like Thyself, my guide and stay can be? Through cloud and sunshine, Lord, abide with me. I fear no foe with Thee at hand to bless; Ills have no weight, and tears no bitterness; Where is death's sting? Where, grave, thy victory? I triumph still, if Thou abide with me. Hold Thou Thy cross before my closing eyes Shine through the gloom and point me to the skies; Heav'n's morning breaks, and earth's vain shadows flee; In life, in death, O Lord, abide with me.
I started the day with a half hour walk down Princes Street, in my church clothes/shoes, to get to the service. Towards the end of my walk I could hear the bells calling the faithful to worship - something I hope comes through well in the video clip below. It felt like a wonderful and joyous welcome to me!
Before entering the kirk I walked through the kirkyard with so many very old stones. It sure seems to me that each week the congregation must be reminded of two verses: Hebrews 12:1 "Therefore, since we are surrounded by such a great crowd of witnesses . . ." and Psalm 90:12 "Teach us Lord to number our days that we may get a heart of wisdom."
St. Cuthbert's and Kirkyard
St. Cuthbert's Kirkyard
Memento Mori - Tomb in St. Cuthbert's Kirkyard
"How still and peaceful is the grave! where, life's vain tumults past, Th' appointed house, by Heav'n's decree receives us all at last."
Even the front of the church itself reminds those who enter that life flies - "Vivite Fugio"
Sundial halfway up the western facade of the kirk
St. Cuthbert's Church - west facade
St. Chuthbert's Church - east facade (at the end of Princes Street Gardens and below Edinburgh Castle)
The interior of this apse is Byzantine in style with an amazing relief of The Last Supper. It was a very inspirational setting in which to worship. There was a pipe organ, of course! The church is Presbyterian, so it felt really familiar to me given the close theological relationship between the Christian Reformed Church and the Presbyterian Church. It also had an Anglican flavor, it seemed to me, quite liturgical, and I do love high church! I was so moved already by the choir introit that I was in tears from the beginning. So much was familiar that I felt very strongly the oneness of the body of Christ throughout the world. The opening hymn was "This Joyful Eastertide." We said the Apostle's Creed and the Lord's Prayer. The final hymn was "To God Be the Glory."
Apse Interior, St. Cuthbert's Church, Ediburgh
This is one reason I love hymns so much - not just because I'm a traditionalist who was probably born with an old soul - but hymns are more than just old-fashioned songs for old people; they are a shared heritage from generation to generation, age to age, and around the world (the western world anyway). I'm not expressing it well, but through experiencing these hymns, the creed and the prayer I felt the unity of the body of Christ - even a quarter of the way around the world from home.
I keep hearing about how Christianity is dead in Europe, and while it is true that there were very few people at the service, kind of like the attendance at an evening worship service back home, and that many of the heads were quite gray, the service was so meaningful - not just because my love of hymns and pipe organs, but because of a very meaningful sermon and a very welcoming congregation. Also, it is clear that the clergy and the congregants wish to reach out their community.
In part the sermon was about BEING Jesus to others, not just talking to others about Jesus. The minister also mentioned the building we were in - that it was built in the 19th century and that the people of that time were probably worried about the direction of the church as they moved in a new direction with a new building (in other words that there are new directions to go now that probably feel pretty scary, but that this isn't new and is part of the history of this congregation). This particular building was dedicated in 1894, but a chapel dedicated to St. Cuthbert is mentioned in the 8th century, and a church has definitely been on this site since 850 AD (making it the oldest foundation in the city of Edinburgh). So this particular body of Christ has seen change after change. The phrase that came to mind for me, which reminds me of a phrase used in my tradition, "semper reformanda."
What drew me to this church originally is that it is the body of Christ in which mathematician John Napier worshiped in the late 1500s and early 1600s - different building, of course, but same location and same local body of Christ. He was an elder in this church and was a very pious man - but more about him later in my John Napier post.
Before moving on to evening worship elsewhere I need to add that the order of service ended with these words, "If you are able, you are encouraged to remain in church for the organ recessional." How cool that that is respected! (Blurry proof given below.)
In the evening I headed to St. Gile's Cathedral, thinking it was an evensong service, but it turned out to be an organ recital - OK, twist my arm :-)
St. Gile's Cathedral is the High Kirk of Edinburgh. It has a distinctive crown steeple. It's on the Royal Mile between Holyrood Palace and Edinburgh Castle. It is sometimes regarded as the mother church of the Presbyterianism, and John Knox (whose house is just down the Royal Mile a little further) preached here.
St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh
When I was a child growing up in Immanuel CRC in Ripon, I would sometimes stay in the pew and close my eyes during the postlude, letting the vibrations of the pipe organ music transport me. I felt at those times like I was in a cathedral. As a child I was always enamored of castles and cathedrals.
Well, tonight I thought back to that time from my seat in an actual cathedral with majestic pipe organ music vibrating all around me - surrounded by stained glass windows, organ pipes, gothic arches, massive pillars, and ribbed vaulted ceilings. I could think of worse ways to spend an evening!
Pipe Organ, St Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh
East Window, St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh
Looking west - St. Giles Cathedral Edinburgh
I know I have at least two organists and a number of other musicians following my blog, so for the sake of anyone interested in such things, here is the "programme."
Post Script to my hymn sing group: I know hymn sing is tonight. I've been thinking about this today as I've worshiped. If anyone is willing to request Now Thank We All Our God for my sake tonight I'd appreciate it, not only is it my favorite, but I AM so thankful for the traveling mercies God has afforded me. Know that I will be with you in spirit :-)
